For budget, travel info, culture, see Itinerary Part 1.
For Seoul Itinerary Days 1-3, see Part 2.
For Andong Itinerary Day 4, see Part 3.

South Korea Itinerary Day 5: Gyeongju

Strange that it took the same time traveling half the country from Seoul to Andong and within the Gyeongsangbuk-do province from Andong to Gyeongju–4 hours. By the time I reached Gyeongju, it was 1pm. This entire city of Gyeongju is announced as an UNESCO site.

There are three must-visits: Seokguram, Bulguksa (pictured above) and Daereung-won Tumuli Park. You can see all three in a day but since I arrived in the afternoon, it was best to split them. If you’re the type of person who likes to do the difficult tasks first, have a quick lunch and rush to the temples. Stroll the park the next morning. If you’re the relac relac sort, take a long lunch and a long leisurely walk in the park. Go to the temples the next morning. Tip: Temples are in the mountains, chilly and windy. Do NOT wear heels and skirts. Bring a jacket.

Stone piles at Bulguksa. You’ll find many of these all over Korea. I suspect it’s a fertility prayer. Does anyone know?

Golden pig, one of the zodiac animals, at Bulguksa.

Bulguksa (Bulguk Temple) is probably the most famous temple in South Korea because of its UNESCO status. Built in 528, the stone bridges, stairways and pagodas are original. But I overheard a PRC tourist saying, “It’s very bo-liao.” (Ok, she didn’t use “bo-liao,” she said wu-liao.) And I have to agree with her. If you see one temple, you’ve seen them all.

Clang the bell of Filial Piety at the entrance of Seokguram… for a fee. Yes, filial piety isn’t free.

After a long climb, a disappointing view of the Seokguram cave entrance.

After Bulguksa, take the bus up to Seokguram, another temple of sorts with UNESCO status, with buddha built in a grotto. Also quite bo-liao. The last place to visit is Daereung-won Tumuli Park, a royal burial ground with 23 out of 200 royal tombs in Korea. Nothing much to see here except little mounds like breasts or ass, depending on your sexuality (pictured below as evidence). Only the 5th century Cheongmachong (Heavenly Horse) Tomb has been evacuated and opened to public.

When you are coming down the mountains from the temples, there is the Anapji Pond, a royal garden, which seems like it’s worth a visit. But I didn’t because I was sick of Gyeongju. In fact, I think this was the worst leg of my tour. The town is dreary and gray and has evolved to exist for tourism. If you want to skip a day of my South Korea itinerary, skip Gyeongju.

How to Get to Gyeongju

1. Train: KoRail has two train lines, stopping at Gyeongju. KTX (the express train) stops at Singyeongju Station, south of Gyeongju City Center.

2. Bus: Take to Gyeongju Bus Terminal.

How to Get to Bulguksa

Bus #10 or #11 from bus terminals or train station. About an hour’s ride.
Add: 15 Jinhyeon-dong, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do
T: +82-54-746-9933
Admission fee: ₩4K (adult); ₩3k (teens); ₩2K (children), free for below 6.
Nov-Feb 7am-5pm, Mar-Oct 7am-6pm

How to Get to Seokguram

Take the same bus as going to Bulguksa, Stop at Bulguksa first and tour it. Then, ask the tourist information where to take the shuttle bus that goes up to Seokguram.
Add: Tohamsan, Jinhyeon-dong 999, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do
T: +82-54-746-9933
Admission fee: ₩4K (adult); ₩3k (teens); ₩2K (children), free for below 6.
Nov-Jan 7am-5pm, Mar-Sep 6.30am-6pm, Feb-Mar & Oct 7am-5.30pm

How to Get to Anapji Pond

On your way down from Bulguksa and Seokguram, the same bus number passes by Anapji Pond. Ask the bus-driver to stop you there.
Add: 26 Inwang-dong, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do.
T: +82-54-779-6391
Admission fee: ₩1K (adult); ₩500 (teens); ₩400 (children).
Daily 9am-10pm

How to Get to Daereung-won Tumuli Park

Bus #10, #11, or #70. But if you’re staying near the bus terminal, it’s a 10-minute walk. Tip: If you’re asking for directions, the locals know it as cheongmachong (Heavenly Horse Tomb).
Address: 6-1 Hwangnam-dong, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do
Admission fee: ₩1.5K (adult); ₩700 (teens); ₩600 (children), free for below 6.
Summer 9am-6m, winter 9am-5pm.

Where to Stay in Gyeongju

It doesn’t matter where you stay because you have to take a bus to the attractions, which are very far out of town. I’d advise staying at the hotels and motels near the bus terminal or the train station, such as Motel Liebe and Motel Sugar.

I picked Nahbi Guest House, a 10-minute walk from the bus terminal and boy was I glad. It was the best experience I had in Gyeongju. The Korean male receptionist (boss?) spoke perfect English, so rare.

And everything is based on trust here. Need a towel? Just take one, and put ₩1K on the desk. It’s a wonder nobody attempts to steal the money on the desk.

I think this might be the family room (3 people, ₩60K a night) but since I booked the single bedroom, the boss charged me the single room price (₩28K a night). I felt like I was robbing the hostel for allocated such a big room and toilet.

What to Eat in Gyeongju

This is a color-coded list provided by Nahbi Guest House. The restaurants are in yellow highlights, and the cafes in orange.

I didn’t really eat much at Gyeongju. Had a drink and what sounded like “or ni bun,” a rather delicious bun, with warm butter at its core, drizzled with caramel, at Sleepless in Seattle Cafe. Not too bad.

The other restaurant I went was to eat jjimdak, or steamed chicken, a specialty of Andong. Since Andong and Gyeongju are in the same province, I thought they should taste similar. Nothing special: It was really just chicken steamed in sweet soy sauce or spicy kimchi sauce.

This is the address. Click to enlarge.

To be continued…

Written by A. Nathanael Ho.